Shoemaking method



April 23, r1940. FQ L. AYERs 2,197,777

SHOEMAKING METHOD Filed Aug. l2, 1937 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 23, F L AYERS SHOEMAKING 'METHOD Filed Aug. 12, 1957 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 I7/ W7 def Patented Apr. 23, 1940 UNITED 'STATES PATENT OFFICE n' 2,197,777 y l' SHOEMAKING METHOD Fred L. Ayers, Watertown,` Mass. AApplication August 12, 1937, Serial'No. 158,665

' 1 Olaim.

In my` Patent No. 2,065,786 granted December 29, 1936, there is shown a .shoe construction in which the outersole is provided with armarginalA inwardly extending lip von its upper face l which projects over and into interlocking engagement with an outwardly extending ilange or lip element o-n the lasted shoe. This interlocking engagement not only acts to secure the parts together, but also to protect a cement bond between the parts inwardly of this interlocking engagement from access by foreign matter which might tend to weaken it.

The present invention relates to a shoe of the same general type and has for one of its objects to improve the methodI so as to facilitate the assembly of the outersole on thelasted shoe.

` Another object is to provide a method by which the interlocking attachment throughout the heel end as well as` the forepart may be readily effected.

' A further object is to improve the cement bond between the parts. j

For a more complete understanding 'of this invention, reference may be had to the accompanying drawings in which Figures l, 2 and 3 are fragmentary sections through a lasted shoe showing successive stages in the formation of the lip on the lasted shoe for interlocking connection with the outersole. Figures 4 and 5 are similar views showing the method of applying the outersole.

Figure 6 is a View similar to Figure 2, but showing a modiiication. Figure 7 is a view partly in side elevation and partly. in section showing a lasted shoe and a springy heel sole adjacent thereto ready for `assemblyv therewith.

Figures 8, 9, 10 and 1l. are fragmentary sectional views showing modified innersole conl0 structions. 4

Figure 12 is ay View similar to Figure 7, but showing the outersole attached.

Figure 13is a bottom planof an outersole prepared for assembly on alasted shoe.

4.5 Figures 14, 15 and 16 are views similar to Figure 4, but showing modifications in the structure of the lasted shoe.

Figures 17, 18 and 19 are fragmentary sectional views showing modications in the outer- 50 sole construction.

Referringfirst to Figures 1 to 5,.a shoe innersole is indicated at I being so cut aboutits margin as to present an outwardly extending feather 2 at its lower edge. Upper materials including,

55 for example, the upper 3 and the lining 4 are lasted about the last 5 to which the innersole is temporarily secured, and the margins of the upper` materials are secured to the feather 2 by stitching 6. This stitching is preferably of subi stantial size for a purpose which will later appear. Next, the'projecting portions of the upper materials' and feather 2 are trimmed off as, for example,I asshown in Figure 2 at 8, to form a tapered flange 'or lip I0 normally extending outwardly. This portion I0 is then subjected to- 10 a pressing operation as shown in Figure 3, which deects it downwardly with reference to the shoek sole andvtends to spread the .exposed stitching threads on,.opposite faces over substantial surface areas' of this portion. This pressing may well be done by a pair of pressure rolls ll and I2 shown in dotted lines in Figure 3, and between which the portion I0 may be extended. This action turns the lip I inwardly so that it is substantially wholly beneath the sole face of 20 the lasted shoe and so that the dimensions across the shoe betweenthe opposite edges of the rib or flange on opposite sides ofthe shoe come within the outline ofl an inwardly extending matingly tapered rib or lip. Il5 of an outersole for the shoe,` 25 as shown in Figure 4. The parts having been suitably coated with cement, the outersole I6, preferably pre-cut to substantially iinished size, is assembled inr position and the parts subjected togpressure, which returns the lip I0 towardits 30 normally undefiected position as shownin Figure .5and forces it beneath the lip l5 of the outersole.

Instead of trimming the lasted shoe, as shown in Figure 2, the extension 2 of the innersole may 35 be inclined downwardly and the lower portion thereof, together with the margins `of the uppei` materials, trimmed olf substantially horizontally as at 20 in Figure 6.. Such a rib 2l presents more ofthe upper materials and less of the '40 innersoleltlian' does the rib trimmed in accordanceA withFigure 2. This rib 2| may then be temporarily distorted to substantially the vertical `condition show n in Figures 3 and 4 and be subjected to pressure and returned toward its former position beneath the outersole lip I5 similarly to the lip I0.

This method of treating the lasted shoe by temporarily turning downwardly the projecting and interlocking portions also facilitatesthe assembly of the parts where it is desired to produce the interlock around the heel end of the shoe as well as at the forepart. For example, in Figure'? there is shown a lasted shoe 25 having its marginal rib 26 downwardly turned as in Figure 4, 55

and to be assembled therewith is an outersole 21 provided with the inwardly directed lip member 28 entirely therearound. As shown this sole Z'Iisprovided with a spring heel formed by a llerpiece29 which overlies the heel end of the sole member 2l and to the upper face of which the member 28 may be secured at the heel portion. It will be `noted that the outersole 2l is in blank form, being flat, whereas the sole face of the lasted shoe curves upwardly in the shank portionin accordance with the usual practice. The over-all length of the space inwardly of the member 28 lengthwise of the sole blank is therefore greater than that of the lasted shoe so that the rib 26 may be easily placed between the toe and heel portions ofthe member 28. When this member 28 is brought into contact with the lasted shoe in the shank portion, it is bent. and the over-all length is shortened `so as to bring the toe and l heel portions of the lip 28 toward eachother. In the subsequent application of pressure between the parts the lip 26 of the lasted shoe will be forced outwardly and beneath the portion 28 around the entire circumference of the shoe, being then in the condition shown in Figure 12, Where the interlocking engagement between the sole and the lasted shoe is shown as having been effected.

In some cases it may not be desired to extend ythe interlocking engagement around the heel end of the shoe and in some cases it may be desired that one or both sides of theshank or Waist portion of the shoe present a thinned edge. It is therefore possible to omit the formation of the lips Iii or 2l about the heel or on either or both sides of the shank portion, since at these portions there is no great tendency for the sole to pull away from the lasted shoe, the forepart being that part of the shoe where vthe most of the strain tending to separate the parts occurs. Where `the interlock is not desired, particularly in the shank portion, it is desirable to rough the margin of the outersole where securement by cement is desired, such a roughened area being shown between the points oz---b` on one side of the shank in Figure 13. Where this is desired, also, the outersole will not be provided with its inwardly extending lip. Where this lip is made as a separate piece it may be secured lto the outersole as by cementing, stitching, or other means, and where cernenting is employed, it is preferable to rough the adjacent surfaces of the sole and strip in order to effect a better bond, particularly where pyroxylin cement such as is commonly now` employed in cement process shoes is used.

In Figures 14, 15 and 16, other forms of innersole lip which can be temporarily brought inwardly to facilitate the engagement of the lip with the corresponding portion of the outersole are shown. For example, in Figure 14, the lip is formed from reinforcing layers 3D, and 3l of an innersole, together with the upper materials, all being secured together by the stitching 32. In Figure 15 the portions 30 and 3| are employed but without any other innersole. In Figurel 16 no other innersole is employed and the lip is reinforced by a folded layer of leather or the like as at 35 which is secured in position by the stitching 36.

Where an innersole is used, it may also be built up as shown in Figures 8 to 11 to form the marginal rib. In Figure 8 an innersole 38 is employed with a marginal stifening feather 39 secured thereto. In Figure 10 the innersole 38 is surfaced across its entire width with ak reinforcing member 40 which forms the lip. 'In Figure 9 the innersole 38 and a reinforcing member 4i, which may either extend entirely across the innersole or may be merely a marginal strip, as shown in Figure 8, are secured together as by a line of stitching t2.A In Figure 11 an innersole 38 is employed reinforced byone or more layers which may-be of fabric, or the like, as at 45, and the outer edge of the innersole may be slit inwardly as at 46 so that the portion 4l therebeneath, together with the reinforcing layer or layers y135 forms a portion of. the innersole interlocking lip.

In Figures 17, 18 and 19 various forms of outersole are illustrated. In Figure 17 a marginaly lip 56 is shown as integral with the main body of the l outersole 5l, while in Figures 18 and 19 the lips are formed of separate pieces secured to theupper face ofthe outersole. In Figure 13 the marginal strip is shown asv made of two parts 52 and 53 suitably secured together, thekwhole being secured tothe outersole 5l, ,as vby stitching 511.` In Figure 19 the marginal strip is shown as integral but having' a flange portion 55 whichl directly overlays the marginal portion of thesole member 5l 'Ihese parts may be secured together by cementing, stitching, stapling, or othery suitable means. These specic constructions of innersole or lasted shoe lip and outersole perse form no part ofA the present invention, being shown `and claimed in my prior application ySerial No. 79,681, filed May 14, 1936. l j

From the foregoing description of certain embodiments of this invention, it should be evident to those skilled in the art that various further changes and modifications may be made Without departing from the spirit or scope of this invenl l tion as defined by the appended claim.

I claim:

The method which comprises lasting a shoe and forming beneath the sole face thereof a normally outwardly projecting elementextending substantially entirely therearound, providing a flat sole blank of substantially the size for the finished shoe having a marginal inwardly directed lip on its top face, and applying said sole blank in flat condition to the lasted shoe with said element positioned inwardly of said lipl and conforming `-said blankand lip to thelongitudinal curvature of the sole face of the lasted shoe thus pulling the toe and heel ends inwardly and forcing said lelement beneath said lip and securingv said element in position. Y

FREDL. AYERS. 

